A Real Butcher Is Hard To Find

This is my review of New Deal Kosher Meats in North Miami Beach.  A real butcher is a rarity these days and Heshy delivers.  Shalom to my new friend Heshy.

I've had a hankering to do a roast beef with yorkshire pudding. With the onset of the arctic weather, it has become a much more pressing issue. The problem is, if I do a roast beef, I just can't settle for any ordinary cut of meat. Nope. It's got to be the best, a standing rib roast. Okay no problem. I remember seeing them at Publix last week. Nope. No go. It's a holiday cut. Meaning they don't carry them except at particular times of the year and that time of year was last week.

So I head up the road to my favorite meat counter. Nope. They don't have them either. They can get them but it requires a couple days notice. Dang. But I did score some veal bones for stock. One can never have enough veal stock on hand.

I'm feeling a little blue at the thought of having to settle for a lesser cut. Not one to be denied, I head to a big box store in the area. They have some decent roast cuts but not what I want. I google "butchers" on the phone. Bingo. There's a hit and it's right around the corner, New Deal Kosher Meat.

So I don't get frustrated driving over there I call.

"New Deal"

"Hello good morning, do you by any chance have bone-in rib roasts?"

"Oh yeah, I just got a nice rib in."

"Okay, I'll be right over."

The friendly gentleman asks where I'm coming from and gives me spot on directions. It's right on 163 Street but in a little old NoMiaBeach strip mall that would be easily passed by.

Entering through the front door, there is about twenty feet of display coolers on the left. Of course the scale sits atop the coolers. It's the kind of place that makes you feel like you should be wearing a top coat and fedora with a matching scarf. This is an old school butcher here. Heshy is on the telephone chatting to somebody about an order. He looks up and gives me the "be right with you" nod. From the sound of it, the person on the other end is in need of some poultry but wants some bones too. Probably to make some stock. Heshy assures the caller he will include some bones in the order, "no charge." I like what I'm hearing.

Heshy hangs up and apologizes for being on the phone. I assure him it's fine and also thank him for acknowledging my presence. He then says he must make another quick call and he'll be right with me, "you the guy who called?"

"I sure am. Take care of business."

"I've got a great rib cut I'm sure you'll like."

He makes another quick call to clarify another order. Hangs up and again apologizes. The delivery guy pops in the back door whereupon Heshy gives him some instructions. There is another guy, who I find out is Heshy too, trimming some meat by the back counter.

Heshy, the first one, starts talking about ribs and what a great cut it is for a roast. He opens the door to the walk-in, which sits to the left as well and at the end of the row of display coolers. I glance inside where there are various cuts of meat hanging from a handmade hook arrangement on the walk-in wall. I notice a skinned and gutted rabbit. Note to self!

Heshy comes out with a full rib, 13 bones. I'm hoping he's not expecting me to take all of it. "How much you need." I hesitate and he asks how many I'm feeding. Really it's just for a couple here but a rib roast that small may as well be a thick steak. I'm planning on some yorkshire pudding so I'm gonna need a fair amount of fat. A hearty helping of leftovers is always appropriate so I tell him I need enough for four. He recommends three ribs and he says he'll cut it right at the fourth rib so I get a higher meat to bone ratio. Thanks Heshy. He also recommends taking out the chine and feather bones for ease of carving at the table. This is a real butcher!

Heshy walks over to weigh the roast. I already picked up some veal bones at my other favorite joint around the corner. But like I said, you can never have enough.

"You have any nice veal marrow bones" I ask. Heshy affirms that he does and I explain that I already have some but it's good to know I can get some when I need them. To which he replies, "look, I've got a couple bags in the freezer. Take them now because I don't always have them. No charge." Who can argue with that?

We get into another conversation about how it's difficult to find good butchers these days. Heshy says, "well you can blame this butcher on my father."

We square up the bill and I walked out with my rib roast and even more veal stock bones. I also have a friendly neighborhood butcher (not really my 'hood but it's a small world) who I can call by name...and all is right with the universe.